July 4th (US Independence day) 2010 long weekend took us to one of the most beautiful places Kitten & I have ever visited till date. Well, come to think of it, Maldives still tops the list for us, but then, people can hardly forget their honeymoon destination, one way or the other ;-)
This time, we both were surprised at my lack of efforts & preparations for this trip. In normal situations, I tend to get hyperactive for over a month before the trip – researching the place to stay, the route to take, even the type of rental car to choose. May be my sister’s visit to USA a month before YSNP trip took much of my excitement & energy. This time, the only efforts we had put till was to book our flights.
Flight
There are quite a few nearby airports which take you as close as few miles from the airport. The closer airport you choose from, the expensive the flights are going to be. Hence, if you have time and can drive, I’d suggest to take flight to either of Salt Lake City (5-6 hours drive from West Entrance) or Denver, Colorado (approx 9 hours drive).
Southwest, our trusted airline, gave us, as always, the best deal for Chicago - Salt Lake City - Chicago. We booked ourselves on a direct flight from Midway Airport on Friday evening and return with a stopover in Denver on Tuesday evening.
Stay
As the travel date got closer, we realized that a lot more planning was yet pending. As expected, hotels / lodges in the park were out of question for our trip, which eventually was the busiest season of the year. We pondered over staying outside the park, but dropped the idea after reviews from the gurus of our trusted travel guide – Tripadvisor. The only option left for us was Camping.
It took some efforts to convince Kitten for the adventure. Getting her agreement was just a part of the exercise. Next we had to search for the camping ground and buy a tent. After thorough research, I found an awesome deal - Coleman’s 2 person tent for 50 bucks on BJ’s Wholesale. Next, the search for the camping ground. To our much dismay, half of the camping grounds are non bookable in advance (you get early in morning and get your spot) and other half take booking only on phone. All of these are managed by a single body called Xanterra.
It is recommended to book as early as possible for your trip. Since we did not follow that advice ourselves, we relied on checking daily with Xanterra for a spot availability. We got ourselves a spot in Madison campground a week before our trip. However, this was in an RV/tent area. We were lucky to get a spot so close to travel date, however, staying between RVs isn’t the best way to camp. It is like sitting in a class surrounded by big bullies on either side (remember the good ol’s school days :-)) . You don’t exactly get the association with nature. So, I religiously called Xanterra a few times every day, hoping to get a spot in tent only area. Viola – two days before the trip, we got ourselves a spot in the tent only area in Madison grounds… SWEEETTT…..
The Preparation
Looking at my participation, or the lack of it in the initial days, Kitten took over the task of planning for the places and activities for our trip. Between the two of us, we ended up g
etting almost 4-5 books on YSNP. This was a first of its kind for us, but worthwhile nevertheless. We did most of the reading or the quick reference while driving from one spot to another in the park.
Reaching the Park
After parking our car at ‘Park Ride & Fly’ parking near to Midway airport, we started our trip with a couple of beers and Mexican food at the airport lounge. The flight was on time and we hovered over the Salt Lake City with fading day light. The best part about the airport was the rental counters inside the terminal, cutting down the wait for the shuttle buses. We had booked a Hotwire deal just a week before the
trip for a full size car. Check in process through Avis was perfectly smooth. We started the drive at approx 9 PM in almost new but not so impressive Chevy Imapala. The trusted GPS was the only source of direction for us this time. Another new, since every time before we have had a back up map set just in case if the GPS fails on us. We reached the overnight hotel at about 1 AM and slugged into the bed.
After a refreshing breakfast & strong coffee in morning, we hit the road at about 10 AM. On the way out from the hotel, we spotted a Walmart and thought to get the fuel (coal, wood & starter fuel) for the camping. We had read somewhere that it is expensive to buy the fuel from the parks and it is advisable to get your own.
After a few short enroute breaks, we reached the West Entrance (West Yellowstone) by about 1 PM. There were long lines, as could be expected, at the toll entrance. After paying $25 for the two of us & the car, we took off for the 20 mins drive to the Madison campground. The check in here again was smooth. The rep explained us the do’s and don’ts in the ground and provided us with a map and choice for the camp site.
Ours was almost towards the end of the ground and pretty secluded. It was surrounded by camps from all directions, and the only thing we possibly would have wished for was to have a site at the corner or the end, so you have trees or open space at one side. However, since this was our first camping experience, we were more than happy to be in centre and not worrying of the bears/bison approaching our tent :-)
Park
The weather was much cooler than Chicago or the drive from SLC, and I was immediately hit by a bad headache. Too much tired to really put the efforts to fire the fuel, we had some dry
snacks, after which I went to take an hour long nap, while Kitten went to brush up her skills on wild life photography.
Norris Basin
Refreshed and ready to explore the park, we hit the road at about 3 PM and headed first for the Norris basin. It is about 14 miles from Madison campground and took approx 20 mins to reach.
There was a park volunteer walking a group through the basin and explaining the formation and the specifics of each geyser. We followed him for a while before taking the route on our own. Coming from the cooler park surroundings, it felt nice to be amidst the warm geyser
s.Norris Basin is in a valley form and is filled with hundreds of geysers, each having its peculiarities. I couldn’t help but imagine these hot geysers pumping out super boiled sulphur and water in the coldest of sub zero winter temperatures. Nature never stops amazing us.
Though it was breath taking, Kitten reminded me that a lot more lay ahead. We took off from the basin at about 5 PM.
Mammoth Spring
The next stop for us was Mammoth Springs, up north in the park.
It was about 21 miles from Norris basin and took us another 40 mins to reach. Before going to explore the springs, we went in a cafeteria to have some amazing burgers and coffee.The first thing you will notice here is a very artistic thumb shaped white stone structure right next to the road. There is a beautiful fall formation which seems surreal. We hiked to the top of this fall and there were some pristine pools with clear blue waters.There is a one way drive route just behind the springs, approx 5 miles long which takes you to the top of the spring.
The view from the top is breath taking. There is a large pool of water which appears like a lake frozen in time. Also, this is an ideal place to give a view of the entire valley. Tip – reach here at around sunset to get the most of the view.
First Encounter to Bison
The night falls quickly in the park. We left Mammoth at around 8 PM with ample sunlight. The drive back to Madison was very scenic in the fading day light.
Kitten was a little bit upset for not spotting a single bison till now in the park.
Just as we spoke about it, there were two humungous bisons right next to the road, rubbing them in the earth to shed off their furs. It was as if they were dancing just for us. It was amazing yet scary to see such huge animals in the wild yet so close to us.
Tip - The traffic literally stops when there are bisons on or near to the road. It might seem thrilling to be so close to these animals, but it is strongly suggested not to get out of your car to get any closer. These beastly animals can be real quick.
Campfire
After an hour long trip, we reached back to our campgrounds. The daylight was almost gone and the fumes from tents all around were bringing delicious smells. This time, we bought firewood from the campground office and it burnt like paper. May be something was wrong with our coal, which didn’t burn in the day.
It was getting chilly and first thing we did was to change into warm clothes. Dinner consisted of some ready to eat meal packets (pav bhaaji & bisibeli bhaath with budlight beer. Alas, why did I not get Corona :-(…
By 10, we were packed inside our tent. We were worried about the cold, but the tent and our comforters gave decent protection. We slept like babies.
First Morning
It feels amazingly fresh to wake up in nature. We overslept to our original plans and got up at around 8 AM. After a lazy, yet delicious breakfast consisting of bread butter jam, tea and some dry snacks, we packed up and left the tent site at about 9.30 AM.
Tip – You keep your stuff (minus the expensive items) in the tent only for your entire stay. We didn’t know this beforehand and thought we would need to uproot the tent everytime we went out :-)
Canyon Village
The route from Madison is via Norris basin (14 miles) and further east 12 miles. The famous Upper & Lower Falls are best seen from these points. It is a less known fact that the lower falls are twice the height of Niagara Falls, and equal if not more majestic. There are many points on either side of the falls, from which these two points can be observed. Do plan to drive on the other side the falls, to the Artist Point. It provides magnificent view of the falls. There are maps available at Canyon Village for more details. Also, there is a good gift shop at Canyon Village, though we did not purchase our trip magnet from this place :-) (we got it from Old Faithful gift shop)
Hayden Valley
The next destination for us was Lake Village.
Enroute is the Hayden Valley – the most scenic drive with picture perfect clouds and the most gorgeous combinations of colors nature can provide. Remember the standard Microsoft Windows desktop image with clear blue sky & green earth… this is where you will find that picture from… Trust me, if you are crazy to click the pictures, the 16 miles drive from Canyon Village to Lake Village is going to take far more than 2 hours… :-)
There are some volcano formations and geysers all throughout the way. There would be parking places where you can get in to see these.
Lake Village
The best place to have food while having the view of the snow clad mountain ranges & the lake. There is a lovely Lake Village lodge, one of the best places to stay in the park. The food in the cafeteria is simply awesome. Don’t miss the Bison chilli, one of the best chilli we have ever had.
After lunch, we spend another half an hour taking in the gorgeous view before heading for the next destination – West Thumb.
Yellowstone Lake
The route to West Thumb takes you along the Yellowstone Lake.
With each destination, we found we were looking at something, which could without doubt feel as good if not superior to the previous one. It is only so much your mind can take in a day. We were overwhelmed by the beauty of the nature by now. That being said, this was the most pristine and beautiful lake we had only imagined till date. We would have stopped countless number of times, trying to capture in within our soul, the images which a camera would never be able to capture. Though the pictures of our SLR came great (that’s what everyone who saw them has been saying), but trust me, it is no match to the actual beauty of the place.
West Thumb Geyser Basin
On approaching this place, the first thought that crosses our mind is that finally we have reached a manmade park.
The neat rows of cars lined up in parking lot, the trees grown in a line all gives an impression of a park entrance. It could have not been farther from reality. We saw here the bluest of blue color in water we have ever seen, in the Black Pool. Don’t get confused by the name though :-)
Towards the lake side, there are benches which brought us the memories of Fateshsagar… Once an Udaipurite, always an Udaipurite :-) Sitting there, we remembered our good ol’ days of Fatehsagar and missed Udaipur’s famous Panditji ke bread pakode and chai…
Continental Divide
On the route from West Thumb to Old Faithful, we crossed Continental Divide twice. e rivers on the east of this line flow to Pacific Ocean and the rivers on the west flows to Atlantic Ocean. Read somewhere in Geography in school, saw it on this trip.... :-)
Old Faithful
It was almost 5 PM by now and we had to hurry up for the Old Faithful as we had booked our dinner slot for 5.30 PM. The Inn has the most luxurious eating place in the entire park. You need to book this in advance by calling Xanterra. This is the oldest Inn in the park and was actually formed as the tourist attraction around the most predictable geyser in the park – Old Faithful. The geyser erupts every hour (+/- 8 mins). There is an auditorium sort of seating arrangement to view the eruption. To kill the time before our show, I fancied imagining people around me huddled together with their popcorns bags and soda mugs all set to view the grand show of the nature. And what a show it was… There are some things about which you have heard and have imagined, but the reality still manages to awe you. This in true sense was one of the life’s breathtaking moments. A fountain of boiling foaming sulphurus water reaching heights over 100 feet is a site which in my limited capability is beyond description. According to the people around us (who were not viewing this for the first time), this show was the most spectacular of that day. It is said that if one eruption is spectacular, the next one will be milder comparatively and vice versa.
The Inn itself is an amazing old building. Very picturesque, both from inside and outside. By the way, we missed on the dinner as we would have either missed the geyser eruption or would have reached campground late. This is in our to-do list for the next time now.
Second Night
We sensibly came on time this day. There was enough daylight left for us to cook the food and enjoy without the need of lantern and torch. The dinner was sumptuous sev puri, chana masala and bread, with some budlight lime (this would be the last time I’d have this beer. Why did they even came up with this flavor, and why in the hell’s name did we go for it… We actually emptied the remaining cans after our dinner in the fire). Night falls quickly, and soon we were deep in dreams… Totally exhausted from so many amazing memories of this day.
Last Day
On Monday morning, we got up on time and had a quick breakfast and packed the tent. The check out process was a breeze. You just drop the paper (which they provide at check in) in the check out box on your way. We had some fire fuel left, which was handed over as a parting gift to a family which was on their way in to the ground.
Great Fountain Geyser
This geyser is supposed to go almost 2-3 times the height of Old Faithful. However, this erupts once in 2-3 days. How we wish that we had known about this one before. We reached this place by about 10 in morning and were told that it was scheduled for 3 PM the same day. Since we had so many things to cover, we decided to skip this one. And hence it goes in our list for the next trip.
Fountain Paint Pot
It is a small lake sort of. Enroute there are few beautiful geysers, worth stopping at each and spending a few minutes taking pictures. I think we were already overwhelmed from the previous day at this point and were just covering the places since they were there.
Grand Prismatic Spring
If you read the last line I wrote above, you are going to find it contradicts totally to what we saw in Grand Prismatic Spring.
This place rates at the very top in Kitten’s best of YSNP. For me, it co-wins along with Old Faithful & Hayden Valley & Yellowstone Lake and … :-) well, each of these places was a beauty & I loved them all.
This spring is a vast body of water, may be a couple of hundred yards or so in diameter, or that was what it seemed to be, covered with so much mist that you cannot see the other side. You find the most beautiful formations of blue & red (primarily, besides other colors too) mist. It felt, we were transformed in a fairy land. There was a strong wind, which was making lovely formation of the mist. After clicking countless snaps, we just stood there letting the mist fall on our faces and feeling connected with the nature.
On the way to Old Faithful, we found a lot of by lanes leading to different points. By this time, we truly thought we were done absorbing any more beauty.
Old Faithful Again
Since on the previous day, I was busy clicking the snaps of the geyser eruption,
we decided to go again and watch it one more time before our way out of the park. This time we decided to watch it from the other end. It came magnificently, as if ready to touch the sky again. It was another superb show which lasted for almost 5-7 mins.
Before leaving the park, we went to have a filling lunch in one of their cafeterias. Bison chilli did not disappoint again (though not as great as we had in Lake Village Lodge). On the way, we encountered a herd of Elks to see us off the park
Goodbye YSNP
We started from Old Faithful at around 2 PM.
We had originally targeted to leave YSNP by noon, but the extra 2 hours were totally worth. We drove south, stopping every once in a while to click snaps of the snow clad mountains in the backdrop of the beautiful lake.
Too tired to enjoy Grand Teton series by now, we stopped for a few clickable sites, before leaving GTNP by around 7 PM. We were staying overnight in Pocatello, which is about 3 hours from GTNP. The route through US 31 is till date the most beautiful route for Kitten & me.
Next day we covered Salt Lake and Temple Square in Salt Lake City before catching our flight back home… An end to the most amazing vacation - Yellowstone.